上裝適體性研究

定　價：￥30.00

作　者：	劉馳著
出版社：	西安交通大學出版社
叢編項：
標　簽：	暫缺

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京東 (￥30.00)

ISBN：	9787560525884	出版時間：	2007-10-01	包裝：	平裝
開本：	16開	頁數(shù)：	208	字數(shù)：

內(nèi)容簡介

　　《上裝適體性研究》是作者在英國曼徹斯特大學攻讀博士學位期間研究工作的結(jié)晶，亦是作者多年在服裝工程領域教學與研究的經(jīng)驗總結(jié)。主要研究服裝結(jié)構對于服裝適體性和運動功能性的影響，并從結(jié)構上解決或弱化造型與運動功能性的矛盾。《上裝適體性研究》由七章組成。第一章介紹研究背景和目的。第二章研究三維人體掃描方法在人體非標準姿勢測量中的應用。第三章通過石膏法的應用，獲得不同姿勢的人體原型，并精確測量人體尺寸。第四章以石膏法中所獲得的不同姿勢的原型為基礎，利用服裝軟件“COAT4.1”設計不同的放松量進行紙樣制作，從而制作出實際的服裝。第五章設計并應用壓力傳感器，測量當人體處于不同姿勢時服裝與人體之間的壓力。第六章通過不同姿勢的人體尺寸調(diào)查，對適體成衣中的放松量效果進行評價。第七章對全書進行總結(jié)。

作者簡介

暫缺《上裝適體性研究》作者簡介

圖書目錄

1.Introduction
1.1 Garment-Making Systems
1.1.1 HauteCouture
1.1.2 BlockPatterns
1.1.3 PatternDrafting
1.2 BackgroundtotheResearch
1.3 ProposedSolution
1.4 AimsandObjectives
2.LiteratureReview
2.1 AStudyoftheShoulderGirdle
2.1.1 DescriptionoftheShoulderGirdle
2.1.2 TheFunctionoftheHumanBodyandtheClothingShoulderGirdle
2.2 AnthropometricalStudyforClothingApplication
2.2.1 SizingSystem-AnthropometricalStudy
2.2.2 DevelopmentinAnthropometricMethods
2.3 MovementFunctioninClothingComfortandFit
2.3.1 HumanBodyMovement
2.3.2 DescribingBodyMovement
2.3.3 ApplyingDataonBodyMovementtoClothingDesign
2.3.4 ClothingComfortandFit
2.4 SystemofPatternConstruction
2.4.1 Modelling
2.4.2 DraftingSystem
2.4.3 BlockPatternConstruction
2.5 TheFittingProcessandEaseDesign
2.5.1 GeneralBackgroundofFitting
2.5.2 TypesofFit
2.5.3 TheAmountofEase
3.Comparisonof3DBodyScanningwithManualMeasurementofDynamicPostures
3.1 Introduction
3.2 Methodology
3.3 TheManualMeasurementMethod
3.3.1 ManualMeasurementResults
3.3.2 AnalysisofExperimentalResultsofManualMeasurement
3.4 Three-DimensionalBodyScanningMeasurementMethod
3.4.1 HighlightLandmarksontheBody
3.4.2 Three-DimensionalBodyScanningMeasurementResult
3.4.3 AnalysisofExperimentalResultsof3DMeasurement
3.5 ComparisonBetweentheResultof3DBodyScanningandManualMeasurementofDynamicPostures
3.6 AnalysisofMeasurementErrors
3.7 Summary
4.DesignClothingbythePlasterMethod
4.1 GeneralBackground
4.2 ExperimentalWork
4.2.1 PreparingtheExperiment
4.2.2 ExperimentProcess
4.2.3 ExperimentalResult
4.3 ThePlasterCastPattern
4.3.1 ThePatternfortheNaturalPosition
4.3.2 ComparedthePlasterPatternsofTheseThreePostures
4.4 CreationofCADPatternsDerivedfromthePlasterCast
4.4.1 AboutCOAT4.1
4.4.2 CreationofCOATPatternfromPlasterCast
4.5 PracticalGarmentDesign
4.5.1 PatternDesignforLimitedMovement-BasedontheNaturalPosition
4.5.2 PatternDesignforLooseFitBlouse-BasedonLiftl80PlasterCast
4.5.3 PatternDesignforaSemi-FittedBlouse-BasedonH180PlasterCast
4.5.4 ComparingPatternMeasurementsforDifferentLevelsofFit
4.6 TheFabricChoice
4.6.1 KESResultsandAnalysis
4.6.2 MaterialAnalysisoftheChosenFabric
4.7 TheFinishedRealClothes
5.TransducerApplicationintheResearch
5.1 ConstructionandOperationalPrinciplesofthePressureTransducer
5.2 TransducerDesign
5.2.1 TheFirstSensor
5.2.2 TheSecondSensor
5.2.3 TheThirdSensor
5.2.4 TheFourthSensor
5.3 TheOtherEquipmentRequiredintheExperiment
5.4 TransducerCalibration
5.5 ChoosingMeasurementPointsontheBody
5.6 ExperimentProcedure
5.6.1 ResultsforClothesBasedontheNaturalBlock
5.6.2 ResultsforClothesBasedontheL180Block
5.6.3 ResultsforClothesBasedontheH180Block
5.7 AnalysisandConclusionsfromGarmentPressureMeasurements
6.SizeSurvey
6.1 PurposeofSurvey
6.2 SubjectSource
6.3 SettingMeasurementItems
6.4 AnalysisBasicMeasurementsoftheSurvey
6.5 AnalysisParticularMeasurementsoftheSurvey
6.5.1 GirthChangeforDifferentPostures
6.5.2 LengthDifferencesinDifferentPostures
6.6 ClothingSizeSurveyforFittingTest
6.6.1 FurtherAnalysisoftheSubjectswithSmallSize
6.6.2 SampleSource
6.6.3 MeasuringtheClothes
6.6.4 AnalysisofEaseinDifferentPartsforDifferentPostures
6.7 ComparetheResultsfromPlasterMethodwiththatfromSizeSurvey
6.8 OptimisingStyleandDynamicComfortfromSleeveConstruction
6.8.1 AddingEasetotheBacktoImproveDynamicComfort
6.8.2 AddingAppropriateBackandSleeveWidthforComfort
6.8.3 ConcealingthePleat
6.8.4 ManipulatingStyle，ProportionandConstructiontoProvideEase
6.8.5 TheHemSolutionWhentheArmsAreRaised
6.8.6 SettingtheFront-BackPartitionImproveDynamicFreedom
6.8.7 DetachableGarmentSegmentsHelptoDetermineBodyExpansion
6.9 Summary
7.ConclusionsandRecommendationsforFurtherWork
References
Appendix1
Appendix2
Appendix3
Appendix4
Appendix5
Acknowledgement