“中華之美”叢書圍繞中華優(yōu)秀傳統(tǒng)文化這一主題,擇取其中15個(gè)專題分別加以介紹。這15個(gè)專題,包括以思想、智慧、藝術(shù)為主的“無形遺產(chǎn)”,以工藝、器物為主的“有形遺產(chǎn)”,以衣食住行樂為主的“民俗生活”,它們精心構(gòu)架,有機(jī)結(jié)合,勾勒出中國(guó)文化的一個(gè)總體面貌,并反映出“中華文化的理念、智慧、氣度、神韻”。 中國(guó)人習(xí)慣把日常生活概括為“衣食住行”,服飾排在了一位,可見它在生活中的重要位置。在這個(gè)歷史悠久的衣冠大國(guó),從古至今,伴隨著民族間的相互融合和東西方文化的交流,服飾的樣式和穿著習(xí)俗始終在不斷演變。 幾乎從服飾出現(xiàn)的那天起,人們的社會(huì)身份、生活習(xí)俗、審美情趣,以及種種文化觀念就已融入其中了。服飾的面貌是社會(huì)歷史風(fēng)貌直觀、寫實(shí)的反映,從這個(gè)意義上說,服飾的歷史也是一部生動(dòng)的文明發(fā)展史。 In the Chinese way of describing the necessities of life, clothing ranks at the top of “clothing, food, shelter and means of travel”, which shows its important place in life. In this country with a long history of garments and ornaments, with integration of ethnic groups and cultural exchange between the East and West, clothing styles and customs have been evolving since ancient times. Almost from the day when clothes emerged, people’s social status, living customs, aesthetical tastes and various cultural concepts were integrated into them. Clothes are the most straightforward and realistic reflection of social and historical scenes. In this sense, the clothing history is also a vivid history of the development of civilization.
作者簡(jiǎn)介
華梅,天津師范大學(xué)教授,華梅服飾文化學(xué)研究所所長(zhǎng),原美術(shù)與設(shè)計(jì)學(xué)院院長(zhǎng)。1983年起從事中國(guó)服裝史教學(xué),1994年創(chuàng)建服飾文化學(xué)新學(xué)科。主持三項(xiàng)國(guó)家社科基金和教育部人文項(xiàng)目,主講國(guó)家精品資源共享課《中西服裝史》。至今出版專著56部,代表著作有《人類服飾文化學(xué)》《服飾與中國(guó)文化》《中國(guó)服裝史》《西方服裝史》《服裝美學(xué)》等。多部著作被翻譯成英文、法文、西班牙文、日文、韓文、阿拉伯文等在國(guó)外發(fā)行。先后應(yīng)邀為日本奈良國(guó)立女子大學(xué)、法國(guó)里昂國(guó)立時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)大學(xué)、巴黎法蘭西時(shí)裝學(xué)院、新西蘭服裝設(shè)計(jì)研究院、泰國(guó)藍(lán)實(shí)大學(xué)等講授中國(guó)服飾文化。 Hua Mei, professor at Tianjin Normal University, the head of the Hua Mei Clothing Ornament Culturology Study Institute and the former dean of the College of Arts and Design. She began to teach the Chinese clothing history in 1983, established the new discipline of clothing ornament culturology study in 1994, took charge of three national cultural projects of the Social Science Fund and the Ministry of Education, and was the main lecturer for the national classic resource sharing course Chinese and Western Clothing History. Now she has published 56 monographs. Her representative works are Human Costume and Ornament Culturology, Clothing Ornaments and Chinese Culture, Chinese Clothing History, Western Clothing History and Clothing Aesthetics. Many of them have been translated into English, French, Spanish, Japanese, Korean and Arabic and published abroad. She was invited to teach China’s clothing ornament culture at Nara Women’s University in Japan, University of Fashion in Lyon, France, Institute of France in Paris, New Zealand Academy of Fashion Design and Rangsit University in Thailand.
圖書目錄
Foreword From Barbarism to Monarchy From Ancient “One-piece Dresses” to Casual Garments and Gowns Incredible Silk Imperial Clothes and Clothing System Martial Attire Reformer – King Wuling of Zhao Drifting Loose Clothes and Broad Bands Extremely Gorgeous Tang Suits Elegant and Comfortable Casual Clothes Cultural Aggregation – Official Robes End of Monarchy and Introduction of Western Clothes to the East Cutting Plaits and Releasing Feet Coexistence of Long Gowns and Western-style Clothes Improved Cheongsams Combining Chinese and Western Features Rapidly Changing Modern Clothes Innovative Workers’ Clothes and Farmers’ Clothes Service Dresses Worn by Almost All People Bell-bottoms and Sunglasses Entered China First Jean Clothes Swept across China Lingering Bohemian Style “Anti-normal” Clothes Popular for a While Exposing Clothes Subverted Confucian Thoughts Amazing Chinese Shoes and Diversified Footwear Cherished Han Clothes Youths Following Trends of Fashion without Looking Back Diversified Ethnic Clothes Minority Ethnic Groups’ Exotic Clothes Numerous Legends about Ethnic Clothes Special Techniques of Making Ethnic Clothes Where Do Primitive Clothes Go in the Internet Age?